Giving Your Outboard a Makeover: A Guide to Repainting 

Your outboard runs perfectly, but years of sun, salt, and scratches have left the cowling looking rough. A motor with faded paint and peeling decals can make your whole boat look neglected, even when it's mechanically sound. 

The good news is that you can get a factory-fresh finish yourself. The off-season is the perfect time to tackle this project. You’re not in a rush to get on the water, so you can take your time doing the job correctly. This guide will walk you through repainting your motor to get it looking new again. 

Why the Off-Season is Perfect for Painting 

Paint and cold temperatures don't mix well. Most spray paints require a specific temperature range (often 50°F to 90°F) to bond and cure properly. Trying to paint outside in the winter will likely result in a poor finish that peels or cracks. 

This makes a heated garage or workshop the ideal location. An indoor space provides two key benefits: 

• Stable Temperatures: A heated space keeps the cowling and the paint at a consistent, warm temperature for ideal application.
• A Clean Environment: Painting indoors protects your work from wind, dust, pollen, and insects that can ruin a wet paint job. 

How to Repaint an Outboard Motor: The Steps 

A great paint job is 90% preparation. Rushing this process will lead to a bad result. 

Step 1: Preparation and Decal Removal 

First, remove the outboard cowling from the motor. Place it on a stable workbench. 

Next, you must remove the old decals. The easiest way to do this is to gently warm them with a heat gun or hairdryer. The heat will soften the adhesive, allowing you to peel them off. A plastic razor blade can help lift the edges without scratching the surface. Once the decals are off, use an adhesive remover to scrub away any sticky residue. 

Step 2: Cleaning and Degreasing 

You can’t paint over wax, oil, or grease. Give the entire cowling a thorough wash with soap and water. After it dries, wipe it down with a wax and grease remover or a prep solvent. This step is very important for paint adhesion. 

Step 3: Sanding (The Make-or-Break Step) 

New paint needs a rough surface to “bite” into. You must sand the entire cowling, even the parts that look okay. Use 220 to 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. If you have deep scratches or gouges, you may need to sand them out first or use a small amount of filler. 

The goal is to remove the shine and create a uniform, dull surface. Once you're finished, wipe the entire cowling down with a tack cloth to remove every particle of dust. 

Step 4: Masking 

Use automotive masking tape to carefully mask off any areas you don't want to be painted. This includes the rubber seals, latches, and the inside of the cowling. Take your time here. A clean tape line creates a professional result. 

Step 5: Priming 

Primer helps the paint stick and covers up the old, sanded finish. Apply two to three light, even coats of a high-quality, sandable automotive primer. Let it dry completely according to the instructions on the can. If the surface feels rough, lightly sand it with 600-grit paper, then wipe it clean with a tack cloth. 

Step 6: Applying the Color Coat 

Now for the fun part. It’s best to use factory-matched paint, like Suzuki or Tohatsu-specific colors, for an authentic look. 

Warm the spray can by placing it in a bucket of warm (not hot) water for 10 minutes. This helps the paint atomize for a finer mist. Shake the can for at least two minutes. 

Apply the paint in very light coats. 

• Start with a light “tack coat” and let it flash-dry for 5-10 minutes.
• Follow with 3-4 medium coats, waiting 15-20 minutes between each.
• Keep the can moving to prevent runs and sags. 

Step 7: Applying the Clear Coat 

The clear coat provides the shine and protection. Let the color coat dry for at least an hour. Apply 2-3 coats of a high-quality automotive clear coat, using the same light-coat method you used for the color. This will make the finish pop. 

Step 8: Curing and Decals 

The hardest part is waiting. Let the cowling cure in your warm shop for at least 48 hours. A full week is even better. The paint needs to harden completely. 

Once it's fully cured, you can apply your new, factory-style decals. Line them up carefully before pressing them down. 

A fresh coat of paint and new decals will completely transform the look of your boat. For a weekend of work, you can have a motor that looks brand new again. Questions about outboard maintenance? Get in touch with our team today.